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Major fashion collections ask: “Who do you want to be?” Meanwhile, we’re asking New York Fashion Week our own questions. Here’s everything we saw, and still can’t stop thinking about, on Day 1.
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Wow, was that Shalom Harlow?
At Proenza Schouler? It was sure ! But even though Isaac Mizrahi’s former muse didn’t wear Look 38, we still sat a little straighter when he walked down the catwalk, because the idea of a monochrome rainbow riff is pretty awesome, especially on an outdoor staple like this black dust coat. (It also comes in white, but we wouldn’t trust each other with a latte and worn-out artwork in such close proximity, you know?)
Why doesn’t everyone do what Collina Strada does?
I’m not going to lie – when I arrived at a monarch butterfly preserve in the heart of Brooklyn for the Collina Strada show, and saw a line running the length of Dimes Square, I was scared. Had the huge hype finally overwhelmed the small brand? Would the show crumble into grunts of “do you know who I am?” And then… everyone was able to see the show. Everyone who needed a seat got one; every look was visible and beautiful, and made responsibly with recycled parts and regenerative materials. (Here is what that means.) The sun was setting, the floaty orange pulp fiber dresses fluttered, the audience was momentarily giddy because Jemima Kirke was on the catwalk, and the brand was even cooler because it was bringing the people to witness something quite magnificent. It is the inclusive, joyful and competent future that we say we want. Let’s continue ten times.
What is true that rings false?
Janet Jackson visited Elizabeth Taylor’s former townhouse to watch Karen Elson open the Christian Siriano show. Seriously. Says Siriano: “I always want to push the idea of looking formal without being formal, and referencing great ladies like Katherine Hepburn and of course Liz Taylor without living in the past, you know?” He did it with Charles James riffs on ballroom skirts and cinched satin waists, plus a hot pink puffball gown that Barbiecore will probably inhale whole. Also, a bit like Mr. Sondheim, look, he made a hat! (10 hats, guys. He made ten hats.)
In theory, nice clothes should make your life easier and more complex at the same time. In Theory, designer Jeffrey Kalinsky embraced this line with a confident stride of cream suiting, cobalt pants and a nifty black “ballerina” dress that really nailed the whole Audrey Hepburn seductive thing. But everyone is going to love the crisp optimism of this collection, so why was every look shown on very young, very tall, and very thin people? Don’t say it’s because “fashion is a fantasy”. We all dream in color, and in our own bodies too. Of course, we will also dream of this collection – the little red suit in particular – but it does not take imagination to see the target clientele of this line (women with worlds to rule, money to spend and a date of birth before Obama’s election) in these modern proposals for womanhood.
Wait, Kate Spade New York does fanny packs now?
Indeed, and they styled them adorably. Check out this party princess at their recent collection launch, which attracted Rebel Wilson, Maitreyi Ramakrishnan and more bouquets of flowers than a wedding planner’s greenhouse. Also: bucket hats in juicy hues, which we really liked.
Who has the best Fashion Week food?
Give in to Roxanne Assoulin, the jewelry designer who follows Harry Styles’ missive to treat people with kindness and understands, implicitly, that it’s about croissants. She bought them at L’Appartement 4F in Brooklyn — her staff left at 5 a.m. because they were in high demand — along with a quiche, berries and granola. “I never believed Americans could make croissants like that,” said Nelson Tiberghien, a Parisian stylist you might know as “the boy” in Young emperors, who stopped to check out the accessories. As we left, Roxanne handed us cookies in the same rainbow mosaic as her beloved bracelets. (There are porcelain enamel rings and gemstone earrings now also, just a warning.)
Does everyone just need a hug?
That’s my theory after three — three! — cozy piles of knitwear kicked off the day before Fashion Week officially began. If you’ve got an Instagram account, you’re already familiar with Gigi Hadid’s new label, Guest in Residence, which makes beautiful, colorful basics for warm fuzzy vibes. The rainbow sunset sweaters from Kilted, a new brand with Italian and Californian roots, are so cool and reassuring, they’re the closest thing to all-week therapy. And more at Ayr, they went from their (excellent) oversized shirts to camel and ocean blue color block sweaters. (Their party was on a rooftop, and an editor who will remain anonymous, but is totally NYLON’s Lauren McCarthy, snagged a cream crewneck on a model when she got cold. Captions only.)
Did Anna Sui predict TikTok fashion?
In 1994, to be exact. Head to the Fairchild Fashion Museumarchive exhibition to see some of his most iconic (and Euphoria-worthy) parts for yourself.
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